Lunch Time Conversations

One of the most interesting conversations I have had with Rwandese has surprisingly been about homosexuality. Here, as in many African countries I have been to, men holding hands is common, and done as a sign of close friendship. It’s reminiscent of children guiding each other along the road to school and symbolizes a spirit of close fraternity that I think, due to a fear of being seen as anything other than heterosexual, North American men are not able to enjoy. Most Rwandese I talk to have a firm belief that homosexuality is rare or something that happens to people they don’t know. This helps men to follow cultural practices such as holding hands, and when on the dance floor, even grind with one another. At a recent party in Butaro it was interesting to be a part of a dance floor in which the ratio of men to women was about 75 to 10 and most men were comfortable grinding and dancing closely to each other!

At lunch my colleagues and I have great discussions about issues regarding culture and relationships as it applies to young Rwandese; how does one address the conflicting pull of western influences and traditional values? Recently, my male colleagues were debating homosexuality. However they were not discussing whether homosexuality is wrong or right, but rather whether or not it even exists in Rwanda. Those who have studied outside of the continent say with confidence that does occur in Kigali and can even name the district in town known for its homosexual population. However, those who have not had the luxury of a western education vow that it cannot happen in Rwanda.

When I asked them all what they think of homosexuality though, there was no disagreement amongst them that it is a sin. I challenged them by asking what they feel about discrimination – a topic Rwandese know all too well – and asked them whether discrimination based on sexuality is any different from racial or tribal differences. Regardless of whether they ever embrace homosexuals as a normal part of their population, I think it is important to continue the dialogue, challenge and debate.

Umuganda - Community Participation Day

Rwanda is very interesting from a local government point of view. The country is divided down to very small community groups called Umadugadu (I have to check that spelling) and community leaders are responsible for taking care of their neighbourhoods. To start any community project in Rwanda, you need to work your way up from the local leader up to the ministries because without the local authority’s approval, nothing will get done.

On the last Saturday of every month, Rwanda has a community service day called Umuganda. For three hours in the morning, community members are suppose to work on a project designated by the Umudugadu leaders. It is a wonderful way for the community to work together to keep the neighbourhood in good condition and in the afternoon everyone get together to enjoy sports games and socialize.

Last month for Umuganda I was up north visiting Emily, friend of mine who works for Partners in Health (the public health organization started by Paul Farmer). She is helping to set up a health clinic and is very much a part of her Umudugadu. So, in line with community participation I headed out with the PIH crew to hoe some ditches.

I have to say, I am terrible with a hoe, and despite receiving numerous lessons on my technique I was more a comical display than a useful addition to the team! In the end, my hoe was seized by a more experienced hoer and I was left to dance, sing and practice my Kirwandan as entertainment to the locals.

The Expat Life

When living abroad I do my best to connect with the local population, to live in a manner that has a limited impact on my environment and to at all times I strive to be culturally sensitive and appropriate. However, I will admit that there is the odd occasion when I join what in Ghana we used to call “the Dip Life” (dip being short for diplomat) and enjoy a little of the more glamorous side to living abroad. For St. Patrick’s day, the Irish Ambassador was in town and the Irish community decided to throw a ball in his honour. In true Irish style there was lots of alcohol – including a shipment of Guinness from Ireland, great food and great company. These balls are the highlight for many expat communities in several many countries – I know of annual Irish balls in Tanzania and Zambia - but this was Rwanda’s first and it was a blast! Here are a few pictures to juxtapose to the previous ones I’ve posted. It was definitely a strange experience to be all dressed up in Rwanda and very far removed from the actual reality of life outside the ballroom. Nevertheless it was a wonderful evening and I was able to meet new people and break out a few dance moves.

The black velvet reception (champagne and Guinness) with Roomate Erik and Mike (above)

My wonderful and talented roomate Stephanie and I dancing up a storm (below left)

Pre-dinner coctails with Stephanie and Kate (below right)

I love my job.
Last week I went to visit a women's cooperative in the east of Rwanda. They make banana wine and I asked them if they would be willing to also start supplying my organization, Sustainable Health Enterprises (SHE), with banana fiber from the part of the tree they currently throw away. SHE would use the fiber to make the low cost, environmentally friendly sanitary pads for Rwandan women and girls (for more info on what I do see http://www.sheinnovates.com/)

The day was truly amazing. I drove up in a car with four women and we laughed and sang and danced to music (as best as we could in the rather cramped car). At the half way point between Kigali and Ngoma, we stopped for a breakfast of omlet, bread and "African Tea" (which is a special spiced sour milk tea drink) and I felt as though I was hanging out with my girlfriends back home. But the president of the coop, Christine, is not just a fun person to spend the day with, she is a sharp business woman and when, after a three hour drive, we arrived at her banana farm she had a tour and a demonstration planned to show me how they extract banana fibre.

Her banana wine cooperative was amazing to see, and learning that the coop ensures that the children of their workers all go to school emphasized the point made in so many academic articles I've read over the years - women don't just do business to take the profits and leave, they give back to thier communities. It was fantastic to see these women in action, to learn how to do their craft and to spend the day with such inspiring business women.

Christine, Me and Claudine inspecting banana stalk, and then, me taking my turn to learn how to extract fibre from the stem of the banana tree.

Where Your Old Haloween Costumes Are

Going anywhere from my house means walking for a good 15 minutes from my house to the main road up a very uneven dirt road that winds through a small village. It is impossible to walk through the village without collected a gaggle of kids, all wanting to hold your hand and people call to you, “Bonjour” or “Good Morning” (regardless of what time of day it is). Over the past three weeks I have made an attempt to befriend my neighbours and I have become good friends with one very sweet 11 year old who insists on walking me all the way to my door regardless of what he was doing before I showed up.

But my favourite are the babies. Yesterday, as I approached the main thoroughfare, a small child of about 2 spotted me and started to run, or should I say waddle, towards me as fast as his little legs could carry him. He was excitedly yelling “Mzungu, mzungu!” at the top of his lungs. He was made all the more adorable by the fact that he was wearing a pumpkin costume! Before he could crash into my legs, I scooped him up into my arms and gave him a kiss. A cute little pumpkin running to greet me - there could not be a better welcome home.

Genocide Memorial

When I mentioned to people that I was going to Rwanda, it is inevitable that they asked me if it is safe; the answer? Very. Many of us, myself included have images taken from the movie Hotel Rwanda – which I have actually visited – see below pictures of the Hotel Mille Colline – and hold onto impressions of war because for those of us who have never been in a war zone, it is hard to imagine both the violence and the life after it. We see it in movies as pieces of history, rather than the long progression it really is. That being said, of all the places I have been on this continent – I have never felt so safe, or met people so peaceful. Yet the genocide is still very much a part of the people’s history and important to learn about when trying to get an understanding of how this countries works.

On my second day, I went with Emily, a friend of mine from Tanzania/Boston, and my housemate Stephanie to the genocide museum. The museum was exceptionally well done, and in defiance of the way the rest of the world had ignored them in 1994, the exhibition refused to let anyone run away from any of the gruesome facts. Pictures, videos, and testimonies coupled with factual and historical information brought what to me is horrifying and incomprehensible into some sort of barely digestible form. However, within minutes of entering the memorial, the emotion, jet lag, sun and dehydration all began to accumulate at an alarming state and I fainted. Emily, helped me to sit down, drink some water and soon we were able to continue; nevertheless we did not make it to the second floor of the exhibit – it was just too much. Although I think it was an important thing to see and learn about, I am not sure I will be returning any time soon.

The picture of the three of us is taken outside the genocide museum - our smiles are a bit forced and a bit misplaced.

Tales of a Little Nomad

Welcome to my new blog!

I've finally decided to get on the blogging bandwagon and write down my insights and adventures as I make my way around the world – or at least, for now Rwanda. My only regret is that I did not start blogging four years ago when I left for Ghana and started this crazy life I have been leading. Just think of all the stories I could have been documenting!

I thought it best to start my new site off with a little background information on my current situation and activities. I am currently living in Rwanda and will be in Kigali for the next 6 months or so. Rwanda is my eighth African country and hopefully not the last. It is so different from other places I have been and has truly begun to claim a place in my heart. It is so small, so beautiful and so peaceful (not the image you had from movies like Hotel Rwanda eh? But this is 15 years after) Compared the bustle of West Africa, or the extravagantly beautiful coasts of Tanzania, Rwanda is the shy sibling who is working diligently in the background and will, at some point, spring forth to surprise all those who doubted her.

My work here is for an US organization called Sustainable Health Enterprises (SHE) and I am responsible for setting up the pilot phase of our first project manufacture and distribute low cost sanitary pads with the intention of creating income and jobs, solve women’s health and sanitation issues, and improve school attendance among girls. It’s definitely a challenge and a lot of fun. I feel like a true entrepreneur – alone in Rwanda forging ahead to implement an incredible idea and set up an entire organization in a new country. For more info go to www.sheinnovates.com

I hope you will enjoy reading and will feel free to comment and pass it along. My hope is that this blog will enable me to stay in better touch with all the wonderful people I miss who live around the world. I will do my best to keep things interesting, insightful and attach lots of pictures.